Friday, 6am. My alarm goes off and because I watched the rather inspiring Adventure Show last night instead of hitting snooze, going back to sleep and repeating this until roughly 10am. I got up and went to Pitlochry for a run. The weather looked like a mixed bag of tricks, with some low cloud and a little cold wind. For anyone that reads this that doesn't already know me you might be wondering why I got up at 6 am to go for a run that's only an hour away by car.
I don't drive- what a relief to finally admit it. This makes getting to all those beautiful places that I want to run in a little harder to get to. As today proved, it's not hard to get to pitlochry, however it is a little frustrating with the 20 minute journey to Perth on the train followed by a 40 minute wait in a cold train station only for another 20 minute train to Dunkeld, Pitlochry and Blair Atholl et al. This means that my sometimes, okay mostly, I plan to go to these amazing places but forgo it for a long lie and a lazy morning.
Today was different, if you want to know why please just watch the adventure show and I dare you not to want to go out and do something cool.
So, With the bike in tow to make sure I got a little extra in bed I went off to get the 06:50 train arriving in the amazing Pitlochry (though if I'm honest I like Dunkeld a little more but it doesn't have the Moulin Inn). But Pitlochry is still pretty amazing and has at least 10-20 walks that are easily turned into runs to suit everyone. Arriving at 08:44 I got into pitlochry and cycled up to Moulin to begin the Ben Vrackie walk.
There are many great pubs that start/finish walks but this has to be one of the best, long enough to get views and work up a sweat and with the best post walk pint in Scotland. Especially for an Autumn run. If you haven't been to the Moulin Inn before then get on it. The walk itself is fairly straight forward and the best route is found on walkhighlands with many finer walk reports than I'm about to regurgitate. This is also a great website for anyone that wants to start walking.
It starts from a car park that was empty, with an initial slightly steep climb along a well made path through some trees before it opens up onto open moor land. You don't initially get to see Vrackie, but as you work yourself up and around towards Loch a'Choire It gently creeps into view. There was a lot of mist about at this point but visibility was never really a problem.
This first section through the Forrest and up to the Loch is fairly steep but runnable for most hill runners. I ended up run/walking as I'm not a proper hill runner ;) and to make sure I had enough energy for the down. That and a blog without photo's isn't much fun.
Near the loch is pretty flat and great fun, you then hit the steep section just past the Loch where I was power walking up. At this section there was a little more mist, but you could see not too bad. This is a blog not a public service post but please take a map and compass intot he hills and know how to use it. Either go on a course learn from a friend or learn from this book, just dont buy the kindle version.
my first time in any clag, strange but it lifted quickly
The route from the loch to the top to the top is pretty relentless but once at the top you are faced with some beautiful 365 degree views and when its clear you can see the Beinn a Ghlo hills that I would like to try running when a little better at this uphill malarkey.
Once at the top I went a little mad with the selfies. Not sure if man points subtracted is greater or less than man points gained for trying to run it. Either way, cue lots of my tired, sweaty face.
Made it to the top in 57 minutes. Once there, post selfies the only thing to do is head down. Having read about all these crazy fell runners I can only imagine the horror if they were to gaze upon my Bambi on ice footwork as I descended. In my defence wet grass, trail shoes and flat rock made me nervous about a slip. Though it's clear a faster descent would make me quicker. Once back to the loch the trail is perfect for fast descending and you can really let the breaks off (well for me). It was really fun going down and I made it back to the car park to complete the route in 90 minutes.
Once finished, I realised that I hadn't planned to be as quick. All you whippets remember this blog is called almost average runner. Finishing at 10:50 meant not even I could justify a pint in the Moulin at that time of day. However I ended up going into town and getting a coffee and Danish at a lovely cafe then making the 11:20 train back to Bonnie Fundee meaning i was back in the promised land before 13:00.
This is a great run and one that can be done by non drivers. Next week I'll try and get a run done in either Dunkeld or Blair Atholl, though it's maybe a little late in the year to head into the Munroes of Blair atholl to try and run them as most are fairly long runs.
Anyone got any trail runs that are good for Public transport? Or have you became an inadvertent duathlete by making sure you can get to the start of a trail run?
Yes it may be hard, and leave you blowing out of your arse but after spending the week in Chamonix I agree with Buff (other head wear available, and might do the same job cheaper). Flat is boring!
Chamonix is often said to be the outdoor sports capital of Europe and it's a place that leaves you aching to get outdoors and be active. In the south east of France based in the Rhone-Alpes region. It's primarily a ski resort but opens it's doors to walkers, climbers, runners, and adrenaline enthusiasts from across the world during the summer months. Huge amounts of accommodation mean that it's dirt cheap to hire an apartment in the late summer. We went for a week from the last weekend of August.
We arrived on the Saturday and it was the the last day of The North Face Ultra-Trail Du Mont-Blanc. It was a really cool thing to stumble upon. The atmosphere was electric at the finish line with family, friends, support teams and well wishers all giving the finishers the cheers they deserve. came back later that evening to have a drink and support the runners coming in in the evening and if anything the atmosphere got better. Anyone that even qualifies for this is superhuman in my book but seeing some of the later finishers with their friends and family made you smile. Even though I didn't know anyone there Anna and I cheered away like the finishers were family, getting wrapped up in the festival atmosphere.
The race is the culmination of a week long festival containing 5 races. The UTMB is 166km long with over 9600m of ascent.Travelling through France, Switzerland and Italy, around the Mont Blanc Massif. As a partial explanation of just how hard that must be, I'm trying to convince Anna to walk it over 10 days as a holiday next year. 10 DAYS!!! The winner finishes it in a little over 20 hours, the last finishers in 46 hours.
If watching all the finishers cross the line and preparing for your own Mountain challenge of the Glen Clova eXtreme Duathlon doesn't get you excited and motivated in this sort of environment I don't know what will. However, I'm not an Ultra runner of the same capabilities so after some pastries (When in France) we decided to head for the hills with a walk up to the Cascade Du Dard, a wonderful waterfall with a mountain Chalet (hut) then on towards Chalet Du Cerro and get some views of the Glacier des Bossons. This was a red route and would let us see what we were letting ourselves in for on these none highland peaks. Starting from Chamonix town itself we climbed gently then very steeply. Having lunch at the Cascade Du Dard and then going on to play about at the edge of the Glacier (don't be stupid enough to walk on it unless you know what you are doing). The views over the valley are great and it was pretty cool to be warm enough to be wearing a T shirt but be sat next to a Glacier.
Cascade Du Dard
the mandatory selfie
the beautiful Chalet Du Cerro
Glacier du Bossons
After getting a taste for the Chamonix valley we decided to head across to the Aiguilles Rouges and did a loop from La Flegere up to Refuge Chalet Du Lac Blanc then down to the Grand Balcon Sud to get back to La Flegere. This is a great walk and has the benefit of Using a Cable or 'Telepherique' to gain most of the height. Because you jump from roughly 1000m to 1877m the views open right up and you really find it hard to get a rhythm because you find yourself staring at Mont Blanc from all sorts of funny angles. One word of warning, this is a popular walk and Lac Blanc can be really busy despite being there towards the end of the walking season.
For me the two best days of the holiday were the day we Walked from L' Index to Planpraz via Lac Noirs and Lac Cornu. and the day we ran from Refuge Du Plan De L'aiguille to Hotel Du Montenvers via Signal Forbes. The Lac Noirs walk starts really high and is one of the few walks without a refuge as a mid stop point so it felt much more like a 'proper' Scottish walk it also has the benefit of having 365' views as you top out at an unnamed summit. This walk is mainly scree path for the first half but becomes increasingly manicured paths towards the end with a little (very fun) Cable walking mid way.
The day we did the run we got up really early, well for being on holiday. We ran along the Grand Balcon Nord, interestingly it's on the south side but faces north. This is a beautiful route above the treeline and although it doesn't have views of Mont Blanc the sun was rising onto the AiguillesRouges. We didn't run it very quickly but it felt great to be moving quicker and a smile just creeps onto your face with such amazing views. As we were so early (9am) we only saw two other walkers, going the other way. The terrain was more technical than either of us were used to but when you're in Chamonix and have seen people run around the massiff you can't exactly stop and moan the going is a little hard.
The more I get through this blog post the more it looks like just an excuse to share some photo's but trying to pick out one or two is so hard I've just stuck a load in. It's really hard to take a bad photo in these surroundings.
Once we were at the Hotel Montenvers we had a look around and went exploring down the 420 steps to get to the Grotto, or Glacier cave that they build every year. It's fairly amazing to see in side but you can't help thinking maybe it's worsening the Glacier retreat. You can get the train down, or indeed up and it takes you back to the centre of Chamonix.
I thought Chamonix itself was very pretty and perfectly sized for everything we needed, plenty of good food, bars and cafes that meant you didn't need to eat anywhere twice though a big shout out to 'Cousin Albert's' which is a brilliant restaurant run by a husband and wife who cook some wonderful traditional french mountain food. Being so near Italy the Pizza was also of a really high standard. Also the Raclette is a thing, apparently its Swiss but see the photo below and experience it for yourself.
Cheese, lots and lots of cheese.
Another must for me was the beautiful oasis of Le Paradis. This is a beautiful chalet set in a forset clearing next to a river oozes relaxation. A great idea if you want a rest day as it is a short cycle or 30-40 minute walk from Chamonix town centre.
Playing about at Le Paradis
If all of this has done enough to convince you that a week in the
alps can be whatever you want it to be and that everyone should try it
once. Below are a few top tips in no particular order.
1.
Don't buy the 'Multi' pass for the cable cars straight away. It can
often be cheaper to buy tickets for the single or return trips you need
rather than a day multi pass. If you have wi-fi you can check online if they are running and what it costs.
2.
Try a little french, everyone is really helpful and just because most
leisure workers can speak English on the Continent doesn't mean you
shouldn't try the basics.
3. Take a comfy small back pack, I used this Holiday as an excuse to buy the OMM 32L and it's a great bag.
4. Self catering seems the best option in Chamonix and provides a lot of Flexibility
5. Despite the bad Trip advisor reviews the private buses from Geneva Airport seem to be the norm but leave plenty of time to get through passport control etc.
6. The cable cars are your friend, unless you want the workout take the cable cars down and save the quads for the next day.
7.There are plenty of books to help you plan these and we had bought the Cicerone Chamonix Mountain Adventures
which was a great around guide if you want to try a few different
things.
8. The summer hiking map from the tourist information office (who are also very helpful) provides walks in three grades, green
(easy), orange (medium) Red (hard) this seemed to qualify more for the
level of ascent and quality of the path more than anything else. If you
are used to walking in Scotland most of the classic walks wouldn't cause
you too much bother, Though we did make use of the excellent lift
system to gain the initial steep height, this means you can easily do
big walks on concurrent days without too much difficulty as the quads
don't get too much battering at the end on the way down.
Go to Chamonix, it's a wonderful place where you can do gentle to crazy exercise in any form you can imagine.
